Aug 172014

There is videos below, low or bad sound. I had both cameras in waterproof cases just in case my fat ass caused structural failure or my balance problem caused rotation. If you really want to watch the whole entire boring video, you will see, that I stayed DRY this time. The GoPro Hero 3 Silver is the aft camera looking forward, and the Liquid Image Ego is the fore camera looking at the big ugly guy.


Aug 162014

As always, I am early. I got to Triana put in at around 8 AM. I do this for two reasons; primarily I want to put the boat in the water and let it set for at least thirty minutes before I get in it, to check and see if the polyurethane has complete coverage, and I am habitually and retentively early, just a habit of mine.

Float Test

The empty Puntyak sat perfectly level in the water at about 1/2” less water line then planned. So that is a good thing. Draft empty…less then 1”. After 30 minutes of sitting on the water, being rocked and waved by speed boaters going by……zero water inside the boat.

Fat Boy Test

Not a creaky noise one. So the fuselage frame structure works just fine. The draft was actually less than predicted, which is a good thing. I designed it for a 4” draft at 330 pound displacement. The actual draft with me in the boat and limited equipment….about 3 1/2”, which is just about right for the combined weight of the Puntyak and me.

Stability Test

I didn’t take the side to side rocking to extremes because I was alone on the creek (No one came, I feel so unloved :P). I did rock it side to side to the distance of what I would call normal heel, approximately 10-15 degrees, It popped right back flat. So that aspect is good.

The stability across minor wake waves was rock solid, fore to aft and side to side. But they were minor wake, 6-8” at most.


The Puntyak definitely needs to have either a rudder or a skeg. The slightest breeze will turn it. On the other hand, it makes it very easy to make really tight turns. Definitely needs linear assistance.

Zero to moving. Hmm, seems that it takes a fair amount of push to get it started, but once it is started it glides along with minimal effort.

Possible Issues

Once up to a fair speed, there is a bubble cavitation under the fore slope and a little bit of wake slapping. Solution…give the fore slope a bit of “V” section.

Need more padding, just under the bum, but actually on the sides and where the feet hit, damn framing was cutting into my knees and heels.

The kayak paddle that I was using is not suitable for use in the Puntyak. All of the water that ended up in the boat was paddle drip. In addition, it is a finger banger, a suitable paddle needs to have a 30-32” loom and wider blades, possible Hawaiian leaf blades.


I am actually fairly impressed with the overall design and performance. Obviously as a prototype there are some issues, but they are all minor.

I will post the videos as soon as I am done editing and uploading them.

Aug 142014

It has been a productive day.

Started putting the skin on the frame at around 2 a.m. this morning while it was damp and cool out.

Went through a crap load of stainless steel staples. Why stainless steel? Because I could not find any monel staples.

I cranked the skin down as tight as I could get it. I really was not sure if I got it tight enough.

And now that it is afternoon, and I have applied polyurethane. I am not sure I have enough staples in it. The skin is super tight. Lesson learned.

So 18 hours after I started, I have the skin on and have applied three coats of poly. Yup a productive day.

I need to let the poly dry over night so it hardens up. Tomorrow it gets the green scratch pad to roughen it a bit and then the last coat of poly.

Once the last coat of poly is dry….paint.

At least on the bottom half. The top half is not one yet. and I think that I will postpone putting it on until after the water trial.


Aug 102014

Some people say that boats are expensive. I say horse pucky. I am doing it without a shop and with hand tools.

The only major tool I have is a table saw and it is a giant POS and about to die.


The frame for the puntyak is done all but the sanding, sealing and staining which will get done tomorrow.


Total cost so far $68 including the box of screws and the epoxy. Add another $90 for the skin, plus the cost of polyurethane ……. the puntyak will cost a whopping $190 more or less.

Aug 092014

(warning spewing sarcasm alert)

Don’t take it from me, I am just they shouty informercial man, look for yourself.

We commissioned scientists and nautical engineers from all over the world, for the last 4000 years to design and create with the AMAZING PUNTYAK! 1,2

The AMAZING PUNTYAK is 4.9 meters long and .75 meter wide, .25 meter high.3

The AMAZING PUNTYAK has a draft of 10 centimeters at 225 kilogram displacement.4 This means you can take the dog AND the beer with you! AMAZING!

The AMAZING PUNTYAK is so amazing it will even hold 720 kilograms.5 ISN’T THAT AMAZING!!! With that much capacity you can even take your significant other!

The AMAZING PUNTYAK is SO AMAZING we will let you have the hand-crafted, colored, lines and drawings, created for you by our AMAZING in-house Australian draftsman, Loki Ugla6, for the AMAZINGLY, one time, limited, discounted price of $299.997. AMAZING!

puntyak-2But WAIT. That is not all! For a very limited, one time offer of $.01. We will include another hand-crafted, colored sheet explaining to you how to never get wet in the AMAZING PUNTYAK.8


We will throw in, AMAZINGLY FOR FREE!!! The ability to AMAZE your neighbors and PISS OFF purist kayakers, punters, kayak fishermen, and sailors all just by putting it in the water! AMAZING!

1(OK, so we did not really commission them.)

2(Oh and they were not scientists or nautical engineers, they were farmers and fishermen.)

3(For you metrically challenged individuals that comes to 16′ long, 30 inches wide and 10 inches high)

4(Again with the metrically challenged…4 inches and 500 pounds. Geesh, Billy Bob it is easy to learn, you don’t even have to take off your shoes.)

5 (Oh yeah it will hold that much, assuming you don’t mind water lapping over the gunnels, so you have to either leave the dog or the beer or the S.O……hard choice. And oh yeah, 1586 pounds.)

6(Australian shepherd. I tied a crayon to his tail and put him near paper. Wait. He doesn’t have a tail. OMG I have to wash my hands. EEEEEEEWWWWWWW!)

7(Not a real offer, but if you are dumb enough to send me $300 for a crayon drawing, I will take it. Small unmarked bills please.)

8(Duh. Never put it in the water.)

Jul 302014

I asked V what she wanted for her birthday. Which is today, by the way.


She showed me a photo and a video from the internet of a warping wheel. I almost had a stroke when she told me how much they cost…$500 and up.


Being the cheap bastard that I am…..I made her one.

The first photo (linked) is of the commercial variety. The second photo, is the one that I made for V.

Warp Winder

Jul 292014

I just got a man fired from his job in one of the big box stores today.

I and three other people were in an aisle, two of which were being helped by employees of the store.
The other person was a small, timid Hindu woman, who obviously didn’t know what she was looking for and needed help.

A third employee came walking down the aisle, pointedly ignored the woman who had turned and asked for help, and came up to me.

He asked me if I needed help. I didn’t and I told him so. I also told him he just walked past the women who was asking for help.

With a straight face, he looked at me and said “I don’t help ragheads.” It took all that I had not to knock that bastard out.

I called him an ignorant bigot and went and found the manager.

The manager and I went and found the two employees that were also in the isle and the woman that this racist pig had insulted. All backed up what I told the manager.

And right in front of the witness, I told the manager that if he didn’t fire that ignorant bastard on the spot that tomorrows news paper was going to have an OpEd piece in it about how a certain big box store retained racist bigots as their employees. And I showed him my National Press badge.

The Manager fired him. I hope that ignorant racist bastard rots.

Jul 222014

After my involuntary bathing episode at Short Creek (go ahead and laugh, I did, still am) and subsequent gained knowledge from the experience (never try to squeeze a fat boy in a gofer hole). I have started on Kayak Design #2.


Following are the features that I have tried to adapt/incorporate into design #2.


#1 Larger cockpit. Lesson learned. While my brain says I am still twenty years old, my body is saying it is ninety. I just have to face up to the fact that I am just not as flexible as I use to be, combine that with my bad arm and I just don’t have the ability to get myself into a cockpit that is 25” by 20” (That is 63.5 cm by 50.8 cm for you metric people). Picture this…watermelon and a garden hose. So in the new design, I increased the length of the cockpit to 32” (81.2 cm).


#2 Hull shape. While the Inuit have proven that a deep V shaped hull works great, I have proven that you need to have the skill to use it. And I don’t…yet. In the new design, I have changed the hull shape from the deep V to a flattish, rounded multiple chine.


#3 Rudder/skeg. In an effort to reduce weather head in the new design I have allotted area to rear mount a rudder or skeg.


#4 Rocker. In the new design, I have all but eliminated the fore and aft rocker. I have done this because the intent for the kayak is flat water, i.e. lakes, rivers, etc. where rocker is not much of an issue. As I have said previously, I am not a white water guy, I have too many broken body parts that cant be fixed again if I wreck them…so no rough stuff for me.


#5 Flotation. In some kayak designs, flotation bags are used to restrict the amount of water entering the kayak when you flip it. Other designs use bulkheads to do the same thing. In the new design, I am going to try something that I call soft bulkheads. Since I will be using a type of fuselage framework, I will cover one side with the ballistic nylon and water seal it. (I can hear the comments now…but it will leak around the edges by the skin.) Yes it will leak around the edges of the frame…a lot since there is a 3/8” (9.5 mm) gap between the frame and the skin. And that is exactly why I am going to affix 1/2” (12.5 mm) closed cell foam to the gap area. It will not totally stop water from passing, but it will drastically decrease the influx. And that is why I am calling it a ‘soft bulkhead’.


#6 Bow and Stern Access. On the new design I am including both bow and stern access simply because reaching and stuff is a giant pain in the ass. And hatches will allow access to the bulkhead areas. Because I am a cheap bastard and like making things for myself, the access hatches will be constructed along the same principal as the cockpit cover/spray skirt. Three millimeter neoprene with a shock corded edge.


 (All the boring numbers. Skip to the bottom for images)

Design Hydrostatics

Length over all 18.0′ (5.48m)
Beam over all 24” (61 cm)
Design draft 4” (102 mm)
Volume properties:
Displaced volume 5.83 cf. (165.0 liters)
Displacement 334 lbs (151 kg)
Block coefficient 0.53
Prismatic coefficient 0.63
Vert. prismatic coefficient 0.8
Wetted surface area 27.72 ft^2 (2.575 m^2)
Longitudinal center of buoyancy 8.94′ (2.72 m)
Longitudinal center of buoyancy -0.32%
Waterplane properties:
Length on waterline 18.0′ (5.48m)
Beam on waterline 22.25” (56.51 cm)
Waterplane area 22.02 ft^2 (2.04 m^2)
Waterplane coefficient 0.66
Waterplane center of flotation 8.94′ (2.72 m)
Entrance angle 9.295 degrees
Transverse moment of inertia 4.322 ft^4 (0.0373 m^4)
Longitudinal moment of inertia 349.80 ft^4 (3.019 m^4)
Initial stability:
Transverse metacentric height 11.1” (28.2 cm)
Longitudinal metacentric height 60.15′ (18.33 m)